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Barry.
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August 3, 2021 at 3:10 pm #20024
Anonymous
InactiveHello I need some help wiring the second switch and led into the custom Angry Llama board with the additional boost switch and LED, also I am confused about the SW1 “hot switch” and was wondering if that is just for the original circuit and is excluded from this custom build. Thank you!
August 4, 2021 at 2:27 pm #20046
BarryKeymasterHi and welcome.
I think there is a bit of confusion on this so I will try to clarify.
On this modern version of the Angry Red Camel the Hot Switch is what you would hook up with an LED.
The Boost (more of a performance enhancer) is no longer switchable since we made the minimum rotation of the Boost Potentiometer OFF. As you turn it clockwise the Boost Enhancement will take effect. So it works a bit differently although much better.
The Hot Switch (which is now more like an actual volume Boost) will need a switch with the extra row of lugs to add the LED showing whether its engaged or not.
At the end of the day you end up with a Performance enhancer that dials in with the potentiometer and a Volume Boost in the Hot Switch so it is the best of both worlds.
I hope that helps.
August 4, 2021 at 3:48 pm #20061Anonymous
GuestJohnathan,
Does that answer your question? Did you understand how the wiring works based on the last email I sent to you with the image? LMK
Thanks,
Bruce
Pedal Parts and KitsAugust 4, 2021 at 5:41 pm #20069Anonymous
InactiveI think this helps explain the mod. In the second demo video with the double foot switch, the hot switch being “on” gives the volume boost, but when the switch was off (according to the led) the potentiometer for “boost” still enhances the performance? The picture you sent does help bruce but I need just a small amount of clarification with the wiring before I am confident to solder. When you said in the email, hook the first column pins 1 & 3 to the PCB pads 1 & 3 are you referring to the angry llama’s SW1 eyelets? and just use the first and third one? I will attach a picture below of how I am understanding to wire the second switch, led, and resistor in to clarify. Also besides adding the mod, should I follow the picture of the original exactly how it shows? I will also attach the picture I am referring to here.

So this picture is the regular angry llama, if my understanding is correct, I keep everything the same except for the SW1 i will need pins 1 & 3 running to my boost switch into the the top left and bottom left pins respectively. and the depending on how I would prefer my boost led to operate I will ground out the 8th pin and then decide between pin 7 and 9 for the operation of the boost LED?

here is my understanding of wiring the boost switch with the pink lines being up to me.
Thanks guys for taking the time to help me! Let me know if I am missing anything!
August 4, 2021 at 5:44 pm #20070Anonymous
GuestThat is completely correct, almost. You also need to connect lug 2 on the switch to the middle pad of SW1 on the PCB. Lug 2 being left middle.
August 4, 2021 at 6:11 pm #20073Anonymous
InactiveAwesome and one last thing, I am supposed to omit the LED and CLR on the llama PCB, and use them on the 3PDT PCB instead, does that mean I do not have to wire the three middle column pins from that switch into s4,s5, and s6 like this picture shows:
August 4, 2021 at 6:57 pm #20077Anonymous
GuestCorrect. If no wiring diagram is provided in this build doc for using the 3PDT wiring board, the please have a look at the 3PDT wiring board build document. https://guitarpcb.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/BD_3PDT-WIRING-BOARD.pdf
August 5, 2021 at 6:31 pm #20113Anonymous
InactiveAccording to the schematic and picture, R3 should be 330k but I received R3 labeled as a 300k which I double checked and it is a 300k. Was this on purpose/is it crucial?
August 5, 2021 at 7:52 pm #20118Anonymous
GuestFrom the build document:
IMPORTANT NOTES
*R3/SW1 (Hot Switch) R3 can be anything between 100k and 1M, although a range of 270k to 330k is suggested. This affects the level of gain in one position of SW1. The lower you go, the more difference there will be between the 2 settings of the switch.August 6, 2021 at 6:19 pm #20139Anonymous
InactiveI got everything assembled and the pedal seems to work great! However there are two very high pitch frequencies, one when I click the pedal on, and a higher tone when I click the boost switch. They get drowned out by the guitar when played but are very ear piercing when you are not. I think this is probably poor soldering somewhere/weak wire connection, what do you guys think would maybe fix this? Also I have not adjust the trim pot whatsoever but I do not think that would fix anything.
August 7, 2021 at 2:46 pm #20150
BarryKeymasterCarefully reflow all solder joints on and off board is standard operating procedure.
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