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I recently printed out the graphics for my next pedal with an inkjet printer and let it air dry for 48 hours. I sprayed the Armour All on it and then wiped it with a soft towel. However, the graphics smeared when wiped. Should the Armour All be allowed to completely dry and then leave it alone (no wiping, etc.)? Is there anything else that would protect the photo graphics other than the Armour All?
I also printed out my graphics on a laser printer onto photo paper for laser printers. Does this need the full 48 hours of dry time before spraying with Armour All as the method for inkjet printed graphics? Inkjet and Laser printers use different methods of bonding images to paper (laser heat bonds it to media).
I’m just trying to get the proper technique for the cover graphics/artwork. I actually have used Barry’s method in the past with success, but don’t remember exactly how I did it since it was a couple of years ago.
In my experience – all artwork done with inkjet requires clear-coat before applying to an enclosure surface; whether the photo-paper or waterslide method. Inkjet ink is water (moisture) soluble; even after drying for a couple of days.
Laser prints are useable almost immediately because the toner is literally baked onto the paper as it passes thru the heated rollers of a laser printer. And with laser printouts on waterslide stock, it is still best clear-coat first. On photo-paper, laser prints can be applied without the need to clear-coat first. With Barry’s photo-paper method, the laser prints do not need clear-coat before applying the Armor All.
Did both versions. Printed picture with Inkjet on inkjet photo paper and clear coated it with acrylic laquer. No runs or smears. Should be ready for the Armour All treatment.
Printed pictures with the color laser printer on laser printer photo paper. Sprayed one with Armour All and it came out fine – probably what I did a couple of years ago. The second one I clear coated it with acrylic laquer and will later spray on the Armour All, although I don’t think I really need to do that as it already has a protective clear coat.
The idea for my method is that you can create beautiful artwork without needing to use a spray bomb.
There are many advantages to this. People who live in apartments etc…
I suggest after allowing your ink to cure, spray your project with one coat of Armour All (UV Protection Formula)
Then use a Fiber cloth to lightly smooth it all out. Don’t worry it won’t rub off. Let that dry.
Now you can add additional coats as needed no fuss no muss.
What this does is give you a beautiful enclosure that will hold up for years and even better when you get sick of the artwork it is extremely easy to remove with a razor blade and put a new one on.
As a Follow-up, I used the laquered laser printed artwork with a couple of coats of ArmourAll. It came out very nice and it is now glued to the top of the enclosure a la EHX style. Still very easy to do – way easier than painting the enclosure and playing around with waterslide decals trying not to tear or stretch the artwork. And as you said, if you make a mistake, just remove the artwork with a razor blade and reapply new artwork. Maybe I used the wrong type of ArmourAll – I used the regular stuff.
Here is what happened when I wiped the ArmourAll after the inkjet photo artwork had dried for nearly 72 hours.
Yah I think you wiped too hard or did not apply enough before spreading it around.
You will want the UV protection for the UV protection of your colors in case pedals ever see daylight.
It is more of a smoothing motion than a wiping motion. I guess individual inks & papers might make a difference?
You may want to consider using a hair dryer on the image first before experimenting with wiping strategies.
Barry. Would you be willing to do a video on how you prep and paint the enclosure? Every time I do it I get little bumps on the surface. How do you prevent that? Do you sand between coats? If you do, do you have to wait a day before you can sand and spray the next coat? Do you clear coat the enclosure after you paint it but before you glue the artwork to it and then put layers of Armour All on after that? Will the artwork adhere to the enclosure if you clear coat? What’s the secret to a nice smooth surface once you’ve applied all the coatings?
Thanks!
Not Barry, but I “sand” the enclosure using a 3M abrasive pad. The idea is to rough up the surface slightly so that the paint sticks. I first use a green followed by a gray (between coats) pad. Then I use a soft lint free cloth with denatured alcohol to clean the surface and then paint it. I then clear coat the paint with clear acrylic lacquer. If I use enamel paint I wait a day or two to clear coat it. If I used auto lacquer for the color coat I wait a couple of hours and then clear coat it.
I now clear coat my photo prior to applying the Armor All to avoid the problems I experienced above in the beginning of this thread.
Example of finished product.
The photo sticks to the paint or clear coated paint without any problems in my experience.
So my steps are the following. Abrade, clean with alcohol, paint, and clear coat the enclosure, then clear coat the photo, glue the photo and then Armor All.
I guess I have to do a Video #2 because there are no additional steps, sanding or clear coat. Nadda!
I am not sure why you guys are having a problem but there is something definitely going on.
That said this is the worst possible time for me to do a video because I am under extreme pressure to get all of these 2021 updated boards and build documents done as soon as humanly possible and add to that I did 422 orders in the last 30 days. I know it is a good problem to have but it is to say I am quite busy at the moment.
It is all done just like the Video and I have glossy inkjet photo paper with prints laying everywhere with artwork and coated with Armor-all. No spots, no runs, no sanding and no clear coat. It is all done by letting the ink cure first for 1-2 days and potentially a hair dryer for final curing after that if needed and then a healthy spray with Armor-all and wipe with a clean fiber cloth (lightly) to smooth it all out (not rub it off).
There is nothing more than that on my end but when I have more time I can make a video to show it. My one guess is it could be the paper used? I doubt it is the ink. I use a good quality Canon Glossy Photo Paper.
I have also used this method on photos for a picture frame that I do not want to fade over years from sunlight.
You do need the Armour All with Sunblock of course.
The final result is simple and effective without all of the additional fuss or spraying clear coat.
Barry, didn’t want to step on your toes here. Just wanted to let the poster above how I do things at this point and time.
You may be right about the paper. The Merlin fuzz photo was done on the last sheet of photo paper I had in my cabinet. The one that smeared after Armor All application (Clean Dirt) was printed on paper from a different box (inkjet paper) that I have had for awhile and was purchased at a warehouse club. This was not a name brand like Kodak or Canon so maybe the reason for smearing. It had dried for around 48 hours prior to Armor All application, so it may be due poor quality paper that lacks good bonding of the ink.
I mostly am now printing on a laser printer with laser paper, so I will experiment with my next artwork attempting the Armor All directly to the photo method.
As far as painting the enclosure I was just trying to illustrate the method I employ above as the poster asked about painting the enclosure as well. I am starting to use more powder coated enclosures now, however, since I can get them at a reasonable price from Tayda.
OK. My experiment is done. Printed out a few copies of the pedal graphics to be applied on my laser printer with dedicated laser paper. Chose the least desirable ones to experiment with. Just coated a couple of these with Armor All and no smearing. So the Barry method works as advertised, at least with a laser printer and laser specific photopaper. Haven’t tried it with my inkjet printer since I will only do water slide decals with that in the future. The better inkjet photopaper I had is gone as well, not the stuff I used with my previous failed attempt. I have a couple hundred sheets of the not so good inkjet photopaper so I am not going to replenish my supply.
Moral of the story – my experience is that Laser printing on laser photopaper works just fine. If using an inkjet printer to do this, use OEM ink and quality INKJET photopaper such as Kodak, Canon et al. Not the generic stuff that may be cheaper but probably doesn’t work.
HP photo paper and HP ink in HP inkjet printer and I get smears after letting printout cure for over 24 hours. What kind of printer are you using, Barry?
I am using an HP Deskjet 1010. Real high end stuff.
All I can say is you can’t bake a cake at the same temperature in Denver, Co as I do In Pa.
Things to try.
- Try curing it for 2 days not one.
- Use a hair dryer on the image for a few minutes before applying.
- Use a soft fiber cloth and do not press it down.
- Use a small rubber squeegee instead of a cloth.
- I am assuming you are using glossy photo paper.
- Avoid breakfast cereal at all costs.
Maybe you should post a video of what you are doing so I can tell you what you are doing wrong?
Hello, I am curious about this method and have watched the video. I have used only waterslide decals.
To any who have used this method, you have not had any peeling using the 3M glue stick after a long time? Would applying clear coat ensure more protection for longevity handling scuffs?
You can absolutely apply clear coat.
The point of the video was to show folks how to do quality art on their pedals (instead of the “sharpie” method) without using clear coat because many people cannot spray in their apartment or may not be able to spray due to weather. If you can clear coat then that will provide better protection although I would probably stick to water-slide decals in that case? I have never clear coated photograph paper though I imagine it is fine.
Clear coating photo paper works fine for me. But that is for Laser printer graphics, not ink jet printer graphics. For the Barry photo paper method I clear coat and then use Armor All as I had problems with the Armor All, which I think was related to the the brand of photo paper used because the smearing problems didn’t occur at all the first time I used this method (with the last piece of photo paper left over in my supplies).
I also use decal paper with an ink jet printer and clear coat it after letting it dry and cure for over 24 hours.
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