[MathU41]

Transistors are 2n7000, from Tayda IIRC, so should be source-gate-drain. Not sure how to verify that outside of datasheets.
D1 is a 1n60p. Or at least labelled as such. I’m getting suspicious of any diodes meant to replace older ones now.
I’ll be doing some more poking and prodding in a bit and will get comparison readings.

I’m not blaming jacks on this one; bypassed is fine. And so far everything sounds good, it’s just quiet. So I expect a faulty pot (I’ll be testing those more) or you’re right and it’s a bridge to something, somewhere.

I’ll be giving it another rundown and testing out my audio probe later.

[MathU41]

Alright, some poking and prodding.
Can’t get good pictures of the underside with the pots in place, but there we go.

Measurements, all knobs full:
Input: 9.26v
Q1: 4.06, 4.51, 4.51
Q2: 4.51, 4.09, 4.11
IC: 1:4.52      8: 9.06
2: 4.52      7: 4.43
3: 4.27      6: 4.43
4: 0           5: 4.15

Gain pot is also showing 4.54 on all legs, all other pots and legs 0. Just poked it out of curiosity.

[MathU41]

I love that artwork.
I’m not a huge help on the troubleshooting, but the biggest thing is making sure everything’s the right polarity. Diodes, electrolytic capacitors, power supplies.
That last one gets a lot of people until it becomes muscle memory. Center post is negative. 

[MathU41]

Agreed on all accounts.
The 60’s OD is great at what it does when I want it, and the Kicker is earning a permanent spot on my board. That light hasn’t turned off since I put it there.
And these builds are always clean inside and out. I need to study from this.

[MathU41]

Yes, I do appreciate both mods.
The fat mod especially, just brings in some fullness. Might not be what you want if you’re playing lead and want to stay focused in the range, but it brings some lush feeling if you have room for it.
I do wish there was space to fit switches on the face, but I’ll just have to look for some switches with a low profile below.

I’m not stressed about it. The plan is kind of set it where I like and leave it on. Magic mojo or not, finding the right setting does kind of make everything else sound better, and cuts out a lot of fiddling trying to get other pedals to do it.

[MathU41]

I do like this stainless steel paint. Going to replenish that when I run out.
And yeah, I got lucky with the contents of my Knob Sack this time.

[MathU41]

I have some 1590B’s left over, but you can’t really do top jacks with those; a 125B with top jacks takes up slightly less pedalboard space, so I’ve kind of standardized on those. I do use 1590BB’s if I need bigger. One or two have been tight, but I have yet to build anything larger than those.

In this case, the wires put the right pressure to hold the board in place so it doesn’t ground out anywhere. The bottom tilts down, but doesn’t hit anything important.
If my boards need a little help, I use double-sided foam tape. Gel tape is awesome, I just don’t have any right now.
When things are seriously complicated, I’ve cut strips of 1/4″ craft foam and built bracing from those, secured to the enclosure and each other with hot glue.
But 99% of the time some half-inch squares of tape does wonders.

[MathU41]

Yeah, R24 wasn’t on the BOM; I had to check the schematic. I’m not an electrical engineer, couldn’t explain reasoning about the routing.
As for the layout, arrange it however you want. I went this route because I have 125b enclosures and I’m amassing a collection of NostalgiTone pedals. This is almost standardizing.
Plus I like the top jacks. Saves pedalboard room.

[MathU41]

Thank you much. Would be even better if I hadn’t dropped it onto my cutters.
I have taken to writing the PCB name, what it’s based on if I can find out, and any mods and/or the stock values on the inside of the cover.
Will help troubleshoot when I inevitably kick it or something later, or if I give one away as a secret Santa at work.
Haven’t done that lately, but a much-modded Rat has gotten some stage time in a coworker’s band.

[MathU41]

I’m in the middle of a build of my own. Swapping the switch for a pot, but I did try mapping it out ahead of time.

IIRC, ‘up’ (according to the guide) would be right (as mounted in enclosure), but give it a listen before labeling it.

And please report back if I’m wrong.

[MathU41]

Okay, quick thought before I sleep on it.
Socketing R16-18 anyway, so no harm done if it doesn’t work.
I have some random 9mm pots that won’t see use elsewhere. Use a B200k, wired to all three pads. Swap R19 for a 5k. Leave R17 and R18 empty.
This should also give me a wider range on the attack, both shorter and longer.

[MathU41]

Noting this on my printed build sheet…
Not worried about the clearance yet, either. Thank goodness for printed drill guide. And the software I use for the decals.
Honestly, I could drill it the same as the switch; if I have the right pot, I can bend wires…
Think I’ll socket and experiment once I get it going. 😀

[MathU41]

Yeah, trying to work this all out in my head.
I haven’t measured, but there’s plenty of room between the stock knobs and the footswitch, for anything that will fit between the enclosure and board.
I’m not an electrical engineer, though, and my brain’s worn out by this point of the day. Does the pot just solder in where the switch is, and replace the higher resistors with jumpers?

Either way, I’m likely to socket all these. If nothing else, I could just add a C2 22n/220n switch (I do have a stack of DPDT boards, but fitting a switch on top out of kicking range might be problematic; my plan was a slide switch) and swap resistors accordingly.

But if I get a pot mounted right, I wouldn’t have to switch resistors around if I move it between instruments.

[MathU41]

Oh, neat.
Thoughts for the project.

[MathU41]

Love the addition of the little medallion.

[MathU41]

Barry, I really appreciate that and I’m filing that for future reference. I’m not intending to use it for my guitar or through the guitar amp once I get a bass one, but I also don’t know just how hot the pickups in my basses actually are. This could be useful.

If it doesn’t work out as soon as I snag a proper bass amp, I’ll be tinkering here. Maybe I will anyway just for variety.

For the guitar, I have a range of other wonderful overdrives and distortions, thanks to you. 😀

That said, between basic troubleshooting and the suggestions here, I hope Franz’s problems clear up well.

[MathU41]

Well, at least part of my problem was the tiny amp. It still gets up there on my more proper one, but I have a bit of usable range and that one’s still built for a guitar. I haven’t had the wherewithal for further experimentation or an opportunity to buy a proper bass amp to verify yet but it’s certainly better than it was.

I do wish koenichsound luck here. Making sure everything’s matched up, firmly in place, and solder is holding fixes many, many problems, especially invisible ones.

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