@bigo
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What is considered the front and back of the board? Is the front of the board the side with the “circle” connecting the eyelets for the switch pins? If so, would the bottom of the switch need to be mounted abutting the face of the board with the “circle” on it so that there is 1-4 left-right (clockwise) rotation on the face of the pedal?
Another recommendation is a SS9012 transistor, the PNP version of a S9013. These tend to be fairly low gain and BYOC stocks them, and uses them as test transistors in their Fuzz Face type pedal in case the supplied Ge transistors are acting up. Got one in a Ge-Si FF pedal I built a few years ago and it sounds identical to the all Ge FF I built. I put an external bias control on both FF type pedals I built.
Gutshot:
With regard to what Chuck stated, I am in total agreement. As soon as it appears I am getting close to finishing all my projects, somehow the list starts growing longer. I blame Barry for this. He makes too many darn good circuits to build.
I also was going to build a Mk1.5 bender as well, but recently bought a used switchable boutique Mk1.5/MkII and so I have 1.5 now. I A/B’d the MkII part of this pedal, which has gotten rave reviews, with my old home built MkII (external bias mod + matched Small Bear transistors) and they sound identical. This makes me feel good as this was the 2nd pedal I ever built probably about 15 years ago and it is of boutique quality.
Do the higher gain transistors give a smoother fuzz or rougher sounding fuzz? I have changed transistors in various pedals I built and it seems that lower gain transistors in some of the older type fuzz circuits seem to be more to my liking (fuzzier fuzz than smoother sounding/more distortion pedal sounding fuzz).
Of course this is to my own ears. And also transistor bias definitely plays a role in how the fuzz sounds as well.
Looks nice, clean and simple. However, not to be a Debbie downer, but “Presence” is spelled incorrectly.
Wilkie’s way also will work, of course. I didn’t have the time to study the schematic in detail during my travels and failed to see the commonality of the MOD 1 & 2 pads/eyelets. However, the method I came up with and drawn by the OP should work as well.
Wilkie also provides a great diagram. As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words.
Looking at the schematic, I think you can accomplish what you want to do with a DPDT ON-OFF-ON switch wired in a non-traditional way. Since I am on the road for the next couple of weeks and don’t have access to my graphics programs on my PC, I can’t provide a drawing at this time. I would run a wire from the first eyelet of MOD1 to a center lug of the switch as the MOD1 input, and then attach the cap to one of the 2 lugs in the same row (same side) of the switch. From there, I would connect a wire to from the other end of the cap to the second eyelet of MOD1, giving you your first switchable filter.
Then I would run a wire from the first eyelet of MOD2 to the other center lug (opposite side of the switch from the MOD1 side) for your second input into the switch. Solder the MOD2 cap to one of the outside lugs on the MOD2 side of the switch, diagonal from where the MOD1 cap is attached. Run a wire from the free end of the cap back to the second eyelet of MOD2 on the board.
This is how I would do it and I think it would work.
Looking at the board, It appears that the situation is more complex than what I originally thought. There may be a way of using a single switch to accomplish switching the high and low pass filters, but I am not quite sure how to do it right now until I look more at the schematic and try to figure something out. I didn’t realize that there were two different sites on the board for the filters. Maybe someone else can give a hand.
I have tried the American cheese on pizza, and it is just not my cup of tea. I guess being of part Italian heritage l am just not used to non-standard cheese choices on pizza.
Off the top of my head, I think you could use an ON-OFF-ON DPDT switch with center off position for standard tone, bypassing both high/low filter caps, and solder the high and low filter caps to either side of the switch. This would give you high pass filter – standard – low pass filter options. However, this would not be a stomp switch, but a standard toggle switch.
Maybe the real experts on the board have a better solution. I am currently on the road traveling and have no access to my archived stompbox building information, so I am just spitballing here.
I wish they had stuff like that at the garage and estate sales around where I live. Mostly old furniture, clothes and other junk like that as most people moved to SW FL to retire and got rid of their old electronics and instruments before downsizing and moving.
I did score a mint, unused Epiphone Tony Iommi SG Custom with documentation and everything still covered by plastic protectors in an auction for $400 + 10% auctioneers fee. Way better than $850 new for the same thing (new same model guitar) if you could find one. I suspect the auctioneer fee was charged to both buyer and seller – probably standard 20% to seller, but it was still a good deal to me. Haven’t found anything else like that, though.
One of my favorite pizzas, Pitz bar pizza from Hazleton, PA. Either from Senape’s or Longo’s. Favorite pizza is the Brier Hill variety from Youngstown, OH, the area where I grew up.
I have a soldering iron with a built in spring loaded suction. Works great for me and I think I maybe paid $15 for it. There is a similar Velleman model on Amazon for about $18.
