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  • #39154
    August
    Participant

    Hi Barry, I used pliers as you suggested to bend the legs, but wasn’t carefull enough. Still have a lot to learn and be more patient when building. I get hyped and rush through the project, then I make mistakes.

    It feels like the holes on the pcb are too close to each other (or diode is bigger then usual). I added sockets now, I’ll see what different diodes do.

    Another quick question for the angry llama, it is an amazing thing, has some subtle quack to it. It is the first overdrive where tone controls of my strat really interact with. I do find the upper ‘brightness’ of the pedal to harsh. Could I change a cap value or add one? Or maybe reuse the toggle for the original /preset high cut value?

    Thank you all for helping me out, I’ve learned a ton online, but it reduces guesswork. Happy I’ve restarted these diy pedals! Made the artwork for the llama in 2021 but stopped after the circuit wasn’t working the first time. Now I used a pcb, much easier than veroboard!

    #39146
    August
    Participant

    Allright thank you for the suggestions! Will socket and try out different diodes I have laying around.

    #39126
    August
    Participant

    It’s working!

    As you mentioned c4 being the possible culprit/solution, I checked for remaining flux around that component. After some thorough cleaning of that spot + the rest of the pcb I taped the pots and underside of the pcb with electrical tape to insulate them.

    I also cut the wire from ground out to the jack, as I read this could cause a ground loop. Jack is already grounded via metal housing.

    This fixed the noise!

    Thanks for your help and suggestions, by analysing the circuit I now also understand how the different stages work. Really happy with the pcb and your quick response ❤️

    On to the next pedal, the SWAH

    #39120
    August
    Participant

    Thanks for the help!

    The building doc I used mention guitarpcb on every page so I thought this is the site to call for help 🙂

    I’ll try to replace C4. Do the values change tone? I’ve seen pictures of this kit with tantalum caps instead of ceramics at c3 & c4. Would that help? Could be that I fried some components, my soldering technique isn’t perfect.

     

Viewing 4 posts - 1 through 4 (of 4 total)