red special may queen fuzz (solved)

[Anonymous]

Hello everybody I am new, I need you support, I built a redspecial mayqueen circuit that should be a fuzz, tried at the end the sound is very thin with low volume and not fuzz, I am using with a clean amplifier BOSS katana

I suspect I made something wrong because the sounds in the demo are completly different-power and good fuzz

can you help me?

attached some picture of circuit

thansk

Angelo

[Billy]

Hi Angelo

 

The first thing I notice is that you may have a few dry solder joints so firstly I would try carefully reflowing every solder joint

to do this simply hold your soldering iron tip on each joint for around 3 seconds or until the solder melts making sure you hold your tip on the component leg and pad at the same time to get a good connection remove your transistors from the sockets when reflowing

 

Some do look as if too much heat has been applied from your soldering iron what kind of soldering iron are you using?

 

Do you have bypass signal

 

You should also cut off as much of the component legs as possible on the solder side of the pcb this can cause short circuits if they come into contact with the bare metal of the enclosure, back of the pots etc

 

We need to clearly see all of the components on the pcb and where your wires connect to on the 3PDT in and out jacks and DC jack a picture like this below is ideal

 

With a picture like this we can begin checking the values and orientation of the components and ask for more pictures as required for example close ups of the jacks and so on

 

From your description of whats happening you may have more than one fault but it sounds like you have a dry solder joint causing a poor connection and high resistance to the signal flow

 

[Anonymous]

Thank you Billy for prmpt answer, attached a new picture, you are right I will try to adjust the solder as much as possible, I can see with the lens that one leg of a condensator is not soldered on PCB

[Anonymous]

..sorry is not condensator but resistance

[Billy]

Checked all the resistor values all look correct apart from R10 and 11 (22K) which I can’t see using this for future reference

 

http://samstechlib.com/15924820/en/read/5_Band_Resistor_Color_Codes

 

All capacitor values look correct can’t see C4 and 8 values but they are correctly orientated C5 is within the range specified yours at 220N will allow more highs through

 

And R3 I think it is as you say not enough solder on it the secret to good soldering is to heat both the component leg and pad at the same time and allow the solder to flow nicely

 

With you being able to hear effect it definitely sounds like a bad connection somewhere once you’ve reflowed your solder hopefully it’ll work fine include the solder joints on the 3PDT switch where the switch lugs are soldered to the pcb IN and OUT (T) pads and those that go to the IN and OUT jack socket solder lugs reflow the joints on the IN and OUT jack socket solder lugs if you get good bypassed signal then those 3PDT lugs are OK also check that your cable jacks have a good connection to the jack socket tips when inserted.

 

Be very careful when reflowing the 3PDT switch lugs too much heat can damage the switch internally so again around 3 to 4 seconds allow it to cool then do the next one

 

Post a picture of the 3PDT switch so we can see the switch connections to the jack sockets and pcb IN and OUT

[Anonymous]

thanks , not sure that you can see all  the connection

[Anonymous]

c4 is 2,2 micro, c8 is 22  micro

[Anonymous]

I would thank you for your help, now the sound is right and powered, it was a resistore that was not properly soldered on PCB, now is working fine

thanks again

[Billy]

Excellent glad you got it fixed enjoy your new creation and don’t forget to let us all see it in the show off your build forum

[Author]

Posts