The disortion sc…Read more

Thanks for spotting that one, Billy!

Cheers🤘

https://guitarpcb.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/BD_O.M.G.-Mongoose-Fuzz.pdf

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WqKQNCBHqxn6tkN-b-mtZ7fskTb68koH/view?usp=drivesdk

Idk if increasing R6 may solve it yours looks like 100R instead of 220R did you try it with battery only power or to try and find the cause try tapping your finger on and off the solder joints to see if it affects the oscillation

To be clear, I did not design or build any of the Free Bonus boards. I knew they were verified verified and made sure they made sense schematically, and offered them as a bonus to encourage a few small purchases, while I worked through getting…Read more

But to your question Billy, my question was motivated by a high frequency “whine” in the circuit once built.  I initially installed a 7660sc since I didn’t have a 1044sc on hand (or so I thought). When I ran the circuit at 18v it was…Read more

I noticed in the build document that a 1044sc was recommended for this circuit.  I searched my collection of ICs and discovered a 1044sc.  So I installed the 1044sc and voila’! no noise!

A 7660S maximum input voltage depending on what datasheet you look at is between 10 and 12v a pin compatible LT1054 up to 15v so plugging 18v straight in isn’t an option you’d need a charge…Read more

“It is not compatible with any project that has its own on-board charge pump or voltage inverter.”

If it’s already being pushed to 18V, you’re doubling it to 36V.

The fact that there’s a charge pump on the effect board means someone already beat you to the punch.

I’ve seen the Pedal PCB offering but wasn’t aware of the Aion and Amp Parts boards.  I’ll look into them for sure.

Yeah, I would think double the voltage, double the value for the LED CLR.

Thanks again.

– Aion offers an “18V Bypass”

– PedalPCB offers a “3PDT Charge Pump Board”

– Amplified Parts offers part…Read more

I’ll probably pass on this modification.

I was looking for a solution to having one 18v circuit and two 9v circuits in the same enclosure.

I guess I could install two power jacks and do dual voltages.

Anyways, thanks again for your reply, I appreciate your knowledge and experience.

Obviously you’d need to ensure everything is rated for 18v particularly electrolytics if it were me I’d leave the 7660S part of the circuit empty and build it on a…Read more

What would need to be changed to operate the KICKER at 18v?

I know they both have a charge pump, but didn’t want to risk damage to the circuits.

Thanks for any help.

Upon completing the V1 Copper (one of the bonus PCBs offered), I found the circuit generated a high frequency noise most prominent when the volume and gain controls were set above 50%.

Some research suggested that a 1054 charge pump may eliminate the noise.  It did not.  I have tried both t…Read more

I have considered doing a vastly improved version for the NostalgiTone series that gets rid of the Crackle and creates a dual output buffer. You get your primary hard-driving boosted output from the drain, plus a pristine unity-gain…Read more

one is fairly typical, I suppose, parallel drives.

the other, perhaps a bit more strange:

I have a MFOS Guitar SubCommander board as well as a MadBean Wolfshirt (Tycho Octavia,) that I wish to run parallel with a clean signal.  Somehow, I am also considering use of a Ring…Read more

Barry has already given several great ideas for using the Paramix in anot…Read more

Running 2 delays at the same time without one affecting the other. One set for slapback, the other in full guitar hero mode, both going…Read more

Hey everyone,

I put together a wiring guide for building your own triple combo out of any three NostalgiTone singles. Instead of being locked into a fixed triple PCB, you pick the three circuits you want, wire them in series with one set of in/out jacks, and power the whole thing from a single supply…Read more

(*Brand New) NostalgiTone MAGNETAR: Powerful SUNN Tone

@Barry Thanks again for your suggestions. I finally made it useable and in certain cases it can actually sound good (not the whol rage though).

What I did (always between steps bias again)

I put back the 1K resistors like you mentioned and removed  C1 and C2 . At that point is sounded kind of dead since with both knobs all the way,…Read more

My other modification suggestion for you specifically is to remove R11 completely. No jumper.

thank you for the reply. The problem is not too much, the problem is that it does not work as expected since the pots do not do what they supposed to do in this state. also the sound is kind of bad, not just distorted. The videos sound good and that’s why I ordered it.

Anyway I will try your recommendation tomorrow and I will post…Read more

Put R3, R6 and R9 back to their original 1k values. Then remove C1 and C3 (22µF). No jumpers are needed. Removing C1 and C3 will reduce the gain of the first two JFET stages, giving you a cleaner, less aggressive response. Leave C5 in place for now. After the modification, rebias the stages to approximately 5V at the drains.

I bought the kit from Musikding as well and it is exactly what is described above and maybe a bit worse. I have tried it with 3 basses both active passive, EMG.

Going to Ec electronic BQ500 and tehn 2×10 cab, OR a small Ibanez practice amp.

5V on all J113 and 4V but still the same issues. Also I put in serial another set of resistors on…Read more

How does the Noise Killer work out in the effects loop?

It is wonderful having something you built, is useful, and sounds great on your board.