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Tagged: Andy Timmons, buffered bypass, Overdrive, pop, thunk, true bypass
- This topic has 3 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 22 hours, 11 minutes ago by
brd.
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October 21, 2025 at 4:00 pm #37641
kriskaudio
ParticipantI completed my Andy Timmons drive clone.
the Pedal sounds absolutely amazing. However, I’m getting a loud pop when the pedal switch is engaged, as well as a delay before the effect kicks in, making the pedal almost unusable for live gigs. I’ve scoured the internet for a fix. I’ve replaced the electrolytic caps with high quality audio grade ones. I’ve upgraded the switch. I’ve installed a 1m pull down resistor on the switch. I’ve tried a cap directly on the LED, as well as replacing LED (from blue to red, and tried changing out several different ones of each.) I’ve reflowed any spots that looked iffy. Power supply is top notch. This pedal pops with or without other pedals. Nothing at all has fixed the pop. All my other pedal builds have gone relatively smoothly, but I have never experienced this.Can anyone suggest a fix I haven’t listed? I have thought about trying a buffered bypass configuration but I’m not sure what to do.
Thanks for any wise words you can lend,Kris
October 21, 2025 at 7:45 pm #37643
BarryKeymasterThere’s already a 1M resistor on the main board for that. You can remove the extra 1M pulldown resistor from the footswitch.
For a pop, here are the first things to check:
- Ground continuity: Make sure all ground points are properly connected and everything shares common ground.
- Footswitch wiring: Double-check lugs for continuity to the correct place
- Solder joints: Reflow any that look cold or dull—especially around the jacks and footswitch.
- Electrolytic capacitors: Verify the polarity is correct on all electrolytics.
- Possible bad foot switch? Also note the Green Wire in the image below connecting lugs 1 and 6.
This is from the Guides Page. While the layout is not identical as there are many ways to accomplish the same thing it can help you check continuity using your DMM.


Since I can’t see the build myself, my strong instinct is that it’s a ground-related issue — possibly from incorrect wiring, a missing connection, or a cold solder joint. In that case, I’d start by carefully verifying all wiring and then reflowing every connection.
October 22, 2025 at 5:47 am #37644
PlaysforfunModeratorI can’t say for sure what your situation is yet but, for the handful of times I experienced this, it was always the 3PDT switch and usually a pita to change out. Not to mention the cost. But for reasons beyond my knowledge, it was the switch. One time one fell apart shortly after removing it while messing with it. You never know with the switches and pots until you try them. All sourced by me. No one to blame. Everyone’s results may vary. But that has been my experience so far.
October 22, 2025 at 10:12 pm #37651
brdParticipantSounds like what happens when you connect the power supply to an active pedal. You will get a pop and a delay before signal is passed. Check voltage on the board with the switch in bypass.
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