• This topic has 13 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 2 years ago by Anonymous.
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  • #32231
    Anonymous
    Guest

    Hi,

    I am a beginner builder. My latest project; no power…

    I build in a second led, can that be the problem?
    hoping on you’re help.

    cheers Marije

     

    #32233
    Barry
    Keymaster

    More information is needed.

    You say no power, or do you mean no sound?

    Power can be tested with a Multimeter.

    If it is no sound do you mean in active mode only? How about bypass?

    • Did you bias the JFETs?
    • What JFETs did you use?
    • What are the voltage readings of each JFET.
    #32234
    Barry
    Keymaster

    Update: I also see it is wired incorrectly to the 3PDT wiring board.

    You need to wire from the Main board to 3PDT – BI, and BO.

    Then from 3PDT –  I and O to the Jacks.

    You have done the opposite.

    #32235
    Anonymous
    Guest

    Ah, I will fix the wiring, thank you I missed that.

    Sorry for the lack of information, still have to learn a lot…

    With no power I mean it does not turn on (no led’s, no sound) there is however 9v on both PCB’s.

    I did not bias the Jfets

    the JFets are J113

    Q1: D 0.00 G1.29 S1.62 V

    Q2: D 0.00 G 1.33 S 2.34 V

    Q3: D 0.01 G 1.22 S 2.48

    Thank you in advance 🙂

    #32236
    Barry
    Keymaster

    So with power to the PCB there is power.

    Work on the LED issue later. (You need to pick an LED location.)

    I am not sure you are reporting the voltage to the JFETs correctly.

    When looking straight down on the JFET and the top orientation is the same as the letter

    The top pin would be D for Drain. You are reporting 0v for Drain. It should be around half the supply voltage as you adjust the Trimmer associated with its JFET.

    Make sure your supply voltage to the PCB is just a little over 9v. (Measure it with your DMM)

    Once you get the Bias correct, or close, fix the wiring as nothing will work without that being correct. You should try to push the wiring through the PCB till it comes flush with the PVC and then solder on the opposite side the same as you would a capacitor or resistor.

    #32238
    Anonymous
    Guest

    Hello Barry,

    thank you again for you’re reply.
    I connected:
    I to jack stereo (tip)
    O to jack mono (tip)
    BI to main board In
    BO to main board Out
    In mainboard to sleeve stereo
    out mainboard to sleeve mono

    is that correct?

    I did the adjustment with the trimmers:
    measurement as in the picture.

    Q1: D: 4.72 S:1.42 G:0.01
    Q2: D: 4.64 S: 1.36 G:0.01
    Q3: D: 4.64 S: 1.22 G:0.01

    there is a light hum when connected to my amplifier.
    bypass no sound.

    thank you in advance.

    #32240
    Barry
    Keymaster

    Good, now you have the correct readings and proper voltages for the JFETs.

    Do you have sound in Bypass mode?

    #32241
    Anonymous
    Guest

    Second attempt, hope this is the right way…I had problems desoldering and than get the wire through in the way you told me. I used a desolder pump, but stil hard to do it in a clean way…

    I will try if there is sound tomorrow:)

    #32242
    Barry
    Keymaster

    Is there sound in bypass?

    #32243
    Barry
    Keymaster

    Also I am not sure what is going on with that 3PDT switch but looks like it has a built in LED and it is probably not going to work right with that wiring board on top of it.

    I would clip all the wires off the wiring board and get a new 3PDT switch. One that doesn’t have built in LED.

    Then just mount the wires to the actual switch like the instructions. Especially since you already have an LED mounted to the main board.

    Take your time and make a good connection with the wire on the 3PDT lugs and then solder in place one at a time.

     

    #32246
    Anonymous
    Guest

    Hi Barry,

    I think that it’s not going to work like this indeed.

    in bypass mode; no sound
    when on there’s only high pitch feedback…

    I will order a new one.

    thank you for you’re help.

    Marije

    #32247
    Anonymous
    Guest

    Gave it another try and removed the 3PDT.
    now the led is on.

    in bypass there is still no sound
    with pedal on, there is only feedback.

     

     

    #32255
    Barry
    Keymaster

    I am glad to help.

    The reason I was asking about Bypass sound is because if you cannot get Bypass then either the wiring is not correct or proper contact not being made by the connection. The latter could be a bad solder joint or just plain lack of contact.

     

    You can easily test your contact points by using the Continuity Tester on your DMM.

     

    The following image shows some important areas to test. (Some may not be identical as the guide is old.)

     

     

    The best thing to do is use all of this as a valuable learning experience.

    If you are getting another one, you can continue to test on this one.

     

    Advice:

    Before soldering wires to Jacks, or switch lugs be sure you have a strong mechanical connection first. Then solder. Also when soldering make sure the solder melts into the joint so it is not a ball sitting on top of the joint.

    When redoing wire connections on a PCB pad it is not always necessary to clean the pad out with a tool. You can strip a new proper section of wire to be inserted and then while heating the back of the pad you can slip the new wire section through using the existing solder. It takes a bit of practice and some dexterous fingers.

    Finally here is a video I made a long time ago.

    It’s designed with beginners in mind, guiding them until they gain confidence. I demonstrate how to preheat a pad with time, which you can shorten as you improve. The intention is to support beginners, so hopefully, it will be beneficial.

    #32257
    Anonymous
    Guest

    Thank you Barry, I’m gonna work with that and will let you know if I can find the problem. Thank you for the great help and advice 🙂

    cheers Marije

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