Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 15 total)
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  • #16047
    Anonymous
    Guest

    Sorry again to post so much, but I lose sleep if my pedals don’t work right. I think I am going to install SW2 for the speed mod, but probably not do the kill mod…I can just disregard SW1 to not implement the kill mod? Also, I want to make sure I orient the octo-coupler correctly. I bought it from Guitarpcb. How do I orient it correctly? I have no idea which way to install it. Thanks.

    #16048
    Billy
    Moderator

    The optocoupler LED side should have a mark usually a white dot which goes to the white dot you’ll see on the silkscreen

    I’d advise having the kill switch for the cost of a switch you get an excellent buffer

    SW1 is the speed switch

    SW2 is the kill switch

    #16056
    Anonymous
    Guest

    OK, thnank Billy. I guess I might as well do the kill switch, then.

    #16140
    Anonymous
    Guest

    I’m back on this one, fellas. I get bypass, and when the FS is engaged to effect mode I get NADA. The LED blinks and changes time with changes to the rate knob. Also, with the amp cranked I can hear the very small amount of noise modulating. The speed switch changes the rate of the LED blinking. Engaging the kill switch kills the signal completely, so I am thinking I have an issue with the buffer. I am hesitant to post pictures because it is the biggest rat’s nest you have ever seen. I have double checked all wiring and pot connections and all seems well. Before I post pictures, what components comprise the buffer so I can zero in on those?

    #16142
    Cybercow
    Participant

    Jon –  please post some good clear photos of all the wiring and such. We can’t even guess when we cannot see. If there’s a real rat’s nest of wiring, just try to spread out the circuit on the outside of the enclosure.

    #16143
    Anonymous
    Guest

    Also, here you go
    IC1
    1) 4.6
    2) 4.6
    3) 4.6
    4) 0
    5) 4.6
    6) 4.6
    7) 4.6
    8) 9.18

    IC 2
    1) Varies around 5.5-6
    2) Same as 1
    3) Same as 1
    4) 0
    5) Same as 1
    6) Same 1
    7) Jumps around a lot from 0 to 4 and change. Was hard to get a good measurement
    8) 9.2

    #16144
    Anonymous
    Guest

    I have never posted pics here. Should I use a hosting site like Imgur? Be gentle on my upcoming rat’s nest.

    #16145
    Anonymous
    Guest


    #16146
    Anonymous
    Guest
    #16147
    Anonymous
    Guest

    I know a few joints look starved on the solder side. I soldered the hookup wires from the top. Lesson learned. In the future I will put those wires on the board before installing it in the enclosure. Also, I was a little unclear about orientation on the optocoupler. I lined the dot up with the dot on the board, which was the negative side.

    #16150
    Cybercow
    Participant

    Double-check the wiring of everything, comparing it to the wiring diagram as shown on page 3 of the Apollo Tremolo build doc.

    #16232
    Anonymous
    Guest

    Well guys, I have double checked all wiring and everything looks good. I am scratching my head on this one. Not sure where to go. Is it time to chalk this one up to a loss?

    #16238
    Anonymous
    Guest

    Let’s get a clear picture of the optocoupler.  Since the LFO is working, I suspect the signal is stopping in that area.  Have you reflowed all solder joints?  I think I see some questionable ones.

    #16239
    Anonymous
    Guest

    Thanks Wilkie. I put the dot on the optocoupler lined up with the dot on the board (which is negative), but the part I bought here says “positive side marked”. I suppose I have it backwards maybe?

    #16243
    Anonymous
    Guest

    That could be it.  That end of the optocoupler contains the LED which must be installed with the anode on the + sign and the cathode on the – sign.  Carefully reinstall it and see if it fires up.

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