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- This topic has 14 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 5 years, 5 months ago by
Anonymous.
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December 2, 2020 at 10:32 pm #16047
Anonymous
GuestSorry again to post so much, but I lose sleep if my pedals don’t work right. I think I am going to install SW2 for the speed mod, but probably not do the kill mod…I can just disregard SW1 to not implement the kill mod? Also, I want to make sure I orient the octo-coupler correctly. I bought it from Guitarpcb. How do I orient it correctly? I have no idea which way to install it. Thanks.
December 2, 2020 at 11:18 pm #16048
BillyModeratorThe optocoupler LED side should have a mark usually a white dot which goes to the white dot you’ll see on the silkscreen
I’d advise having the kill switch for the cost of a switch you get an excellent buffer
SW1 is the speed switch
SW2 is the kill switch
December 3, 2020 at 9:08 am #16056Anonymous
GuestOK, thnank Billy. I guess I might as well do the kill switch, then.
December 9, 2020 at 5:37 pm #16140Anonymous
GuestI’m back on this one, fellas. I get bypass, and when the FS is engaged to effect mode I get NADA. The LED blinks and changes time with changes to the rate knob. Also, with the amp cranked I can hear the very small amount of noise modulating. The speed switch changes the rate of the LED blinking. Engaging the kill switch kills the signal completely, so I am thinking I have an issue with the buffer. I am hesitant to post pictures because it is the biggest rat’s nest you have ever seen. I have double checked all wiring and pot connections and all seems well. Before I post pictures, what components comprise the buffer so I can zero in on those?
December 9, 2020 at 5:42 pm #16142
CybercowParticipantJon – please post some good clear photos of all the wiring and such. We can’t even guess when we cannot see. If there’s a real rat’s nest of wiring, just try to spread out the circuit on the outside of the enclosure.
December 9, 2020 at 5:53 pm #16143Anonymous
GuestAlso, here you go
IC1
1) 4.6
2) 4.6
3) 4.6
4) 0
5) 4.6
6) 4.6
7) 4.6
8) 9.18IC 2
1) Varies around 5.5-6
2) Same as 1
3) Same as 1
4) 0
5) Same as 1
6) Same 1
7) Jumps around a lot from 0 to 4 and change. Was hard to get a good measurement
8) 9.2December 9, 2020 at 5:58 pm #16144Anonymous
GuestI have never posted pics here. Should I use a hosting site like Imgur? Be gentle on my upcoming rat’s nest.
December 9, 2020 at 6:55 pm #16145December 9, 2020 at 6:56 pm #16146Anonymous
GuestDecember 9, 2020 at 6:59 pm #16147Anonymous
GuestI know a few joints look starved on the solder side. I soldered the hookup wires from the top. Lesson learned. In the future I will put those wires on the board before installing it in the enclosure. Also, I was a little unclear about orientation on the optocoupler. I lined the dot up with the dot on the board, which was the negative side.
December 10, 2020 at 12:56 am #16150
CybercowParticipantDouble-check the wiring of everything, comparing it to the wiring diagram as shown on page 3 of the Apollo Tremolo build doc.
December 15, 2020 at 12:58 pm #16232Anonymous
GuestWell guys, I have double checked all wiring and everything looks good. I am scratching my head on this one. Not sure where to go. Is it time to chalk this one up to a loss?
December 15, 2020 at 7:23 pm #16238Anonymous
GuestLet’s get a clear picture of the optocoupler. Since the LFO is working, I suspect the signal is stopping in that area. Have you reflowed all solder joints? I think I see some questionable ones.
December 15, 2020 at 7:54 pm #16239Anonymous
GuestThanks Wilkie. I put the dot on the optocoupler lined up with the dot on the board (which is negative), but the part I bought here says “positive side marked”. I suppose I have it backwards maybe?
December 15, 2020 at 11:21 pm #16243Anonymous
GuestThat could be it. That end of the optocoupler contains the LED which must be installed with the anode on the + sign and the cathode on the – sign. Carefully reinstall it and see if it fires up.
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