Viewing 6 posts - 1 through 6 (of 6 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #4934
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    Hi, noob here

    On the parts list for the Fuzzy Bee, R6 is listed as 27k or 24k. And on the diagram, it’s listed as 27k with an asterix. No other mention of this on the build document.

    I’m curious how come either of those are valid options, what the differences would be, and how I would make the choice? Obviously I can just try both, which I might do anyway, but hoping someone a little more knowledgable can educate me a little. 🙂

    Thanks!

    #4938
    Barry
    Keymaster

    No difference it is an odd value to some so whatever you have in your parts drawer.

    #4939
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    Hi Claus.  Welcome.  Adding to what Barry posted,  I think if you socket the resistor pad and try both, you will find R6 works on the loudness of the balance pot.  My Killer Bee is awesome and I used the 24k since that was on hand when I built it.  On this forum you will frequently see the term “Socket and see”!  It gives the option of trying different components before having to solder and de-solder components.  Hope this is helpful.

    #4942
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    Thank you both! Very helpful! Looking forward to listening to this one!

    #5044
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    I have a follow-up question to this. On the build document, D1 is listed as 1n34a. And for Q1-Q3 I’ve bought the three knob tone bender set from Small Bear. However, that set includes its own diode. A 1n270 specifically. My question is — do I just ignore that diode, or am I supposed to use it as “D1” instead of the 1n34a the build diagram lists?

    Thanks!

    #5045
    Barry
    Keymaster

    Use whichever one you like or have since they are the same type and have the same forward voltage.

Viewing 6 posts - 1 through 6 (of 6 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.