[blandoon]

Oh yeah, I’m sure it was just a freak occurrence. And the board was kicking around in my “backlog” box for quite a while before I got back to it, so we can’t rule out that it took some damage during all that time.

Plus, like you said I’ve built the DSOTM combo and one or two other small things and had no problems with those. So no worries at all.

[blandoon]

Well, I figured it out… the switches checked out OK and I reflowed the pads, and when that didn’t help I started probing for continuity. I saw there should have been a signal getting from C1 to R2, and on looking closer the trace looked a little funny – turns out that was because it isn’t there:

So I tacked a wire on there, and sure enough, the OD works just fine. If nothing else I’m glad it turns out I put it together correctly, lol.

[blandoon]

No, they’re ceramic (MLCC) caps from Tayda; the ones they sell are that color. I looked to see if a different cap got in there somehow, but none have the polarity markings like above.

Here are the TL072 voltages (as close as I can get, let me know if I need to measure anything else). This is with the switch active / LED on:

1. 4.4v
2. 4.4v
3. 4.0v
4. 0
5. 4.4v
6. 4.4v
7. 4.4v
8. 8.8v

 

[blandoon]

I’m still exploring them, for sure, but I was instantly impressed with the phaser. I don’t have one at the moment since I sold my old Small Stone (and this is a pretty different sound from that anyway). The wattamp/fuzz is a really nice combination that makes me want to see if I can pull off the solo from Money on the UK2, but frankly I’ll need to practice that one a lot more before it will sound acceptable, lol.

[Author]

Posts