August 11, 2020 at 3:58 pm #13995
Actually, a couple questions…
I am about to build another Mini Me Chorus (the first is being loaned to a friend) and prepping to pick and then drill an enclosure and want to do the Cap Mod to this build…
So, I notice that the caps are wired in series using jumper wires on the roto tone. Is this because it was the easiest way to get the values that were needed for the mod? Would it be possible to use caps that are close to the values you get from wiring in series (330pf, 194pf, 103pf, 32pf) and just use basic wiring on the roto-tone without the jumpers and get similar results?
Also, the original value for C18 is 150pf and there is no corresponding value in the mod for that. I really like the one I have built with the original cap and don’t necessarily want to lose that stock option. I considered using a DPDT wtih the 150pf on one side and the roto-tone on the other…toggle between stock and the mod values.
So, I guess the real question is how exact are those cap values in the mod? Is there some wiggle room in there to use close but alternate values?
Thanks!August 11, 2020 at 4:25 pm #13996wilkie1Moderator
You are correct. The mod is achieved by adding caps together to achieve the desired values using the RotoTone. If you use other values, you will get different results that you may prefer. A DPDT switch would give you the original value plus all of the MOD values.
Keep in mind, cap values may vary as much as 20%. If you measure each one before soldering, you can fine tune your results. How good are your ears?August 11, 2020 at 5:12 pm #13997
The only thing worse than my ears is my guitar playing. I have all of the cap values in 5% or 10% film except for the 47pf.
I think I will go with your mod and add the DPDT switch…since you already did all the leg work on the values. I want to get it into a 125B but may be out of luck with the switch and the roto tone.
I guess I need to hurry up and build it before I loan my current one out and do some side by side…already have a DPDT wiring board with sockets I could use for testing values. I will plug in something close to the biggest cap value and the smallest and if I can’t hear a difference then I know I can save the roto tone for something else!!!
As always, thanks for the help…August 13, 2020 at 10:51 pm #14023CybercowModerator
Brooks – late to the party, but I’ve applied Wilkie’s Mini-Me “Depth Mod” by changing the cap values precisely how he demonstrates it in his modification document. It works like a charm. However, I was unable use enough 2 lb sledgehammer and shoehorn to get it all into a 125B enclosure. Instead went with a 1590BB. I was able to employ top-mounted jacks, but chose to keep the stompswitch centered on the enclosure; pushing the jacks to the sides. I basically sacrificed a slightly more efficient interface function for the aesthetics of the finished pedal.
Please let us know how your build goes. All the best!September 4, 2020 at 3:58 am #14523
Well…I crammed it into a 125B…I think I could have done top jacks but didn’t try…I kind of prefer side jacks. I will post pictures in the show your build forum.
…unfortunately, also going to start a new Mini Me thread in the support section. I had an extra Mini Me board and figured I would build that one up too…and ran into issues.September 4, 2020 at 12:15 pm #14532wilkie1Moderator
I LOVE your name for the pedal!September 4, 2020 at 10:15 pm #14535CybercowModerator
Wilkie1 – Thanks! I usually prefer short names for the candy wrappers. But late night thesaurus searches got the better of me.
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