February 9, 2020 at 5:46 pm #10658huli50Participant
Hey all, thought I’d share my build of the Killer Bee circuit. I present to you the JIP Drive, hand-painted by my two daughters.
It’s a Killer Bee circuit using a 3PDT footswitch for the boost, and a potentiometer to vary the boost. Halfway through the build, I realized how nicely the boost was going to be wired and thought of wiring it so that the boost can be enabled without the drive side being on. Also, thought if I was doing that, thought it would be nice to have an order switcher in there to go Drive -> Boost, or Boost -> Drive. So this pedal uses GuitarPCB’s Killer Bee, two 3PDT breakout boards, and one Easy Order Switching Board (Toggle version). It feels like a combo build because of the two independent circuits, but it’s just one main PCB. Gut shot below. Yes, I installed the fx order switch PCB upside down and reversed the input and output wiring. I had the plan of routing all the 9v and ground wiring down the centerline and all the signal wiring around the periphery and it just made more sense with the location of the effects and jacks. One thing I’d change is the DC power jack. In hindsight, I’m sure I could have fit it on the top like the input and output jacks on such a large enclosure. But when I was drilling, I got nervous about fitting it on top, so I chickened out and put it on the side.
One more pic below to plug the paint job. The Volume knob on the left hand side technically belongs to the drive circuit on the right, but you try telling one of your daughters that her side only has one knob while her sister has three.
How does it sound? AWESOME. This is a highly underrated circuit, in my opinion. Great for crunch, and I’m so glad I wired the boost side independently for that flexibility. Some more notes and questions:
- Per my kids’ must-have directions, I got one blue and one purple LED. When both are on, the pedal’s current draw jumps from something like 3mA to over 11 mA. Not that I’m complaining, but might be a consideration for some builds.
- I ground the output jack just using the enclosure instead of a wire back to the main PCB. I hear different opinions from the DIY community on this. Any thoughts from this community?
- I had initially put a jumper on each 3PDT board between lugs 1 and 6 to ground the input of each circuit during bypass, but ended up removing it on the final build. I only used single-color LEDs instead of bi-color, so lug 6 was doing nothing. See below. I also hear mixed opinions on this. Any thoughts from this community? Useful or not?
That’s it from me! Thanks for taking some time to check it out. Hope you guys have a good one.February 9, 2020 at 7:59 pm #10662BillyModerator
Nice looking build great idea too separating the boost
I only ever wire the input to ground if I have to
I’ve never actually had to do it with any GPCB build
The only time I did was with a script phase 90 build on an etched board adding pulldown resistors on both input and output didn’t cure the switch pop but putting a link between lugs 1 and 6 did the trick
So I dont do it unless I need to
I do however always ground both input and output jacks although rare jack nuts can come loose and with the 3PDT boards its only a little neat wire acrossFebruary 10, 2020 at 12:49 pm #10705BarryKeymaster
Nice build. Thank you for sharing.
The only time it would be required to ground the input in Bypass is if the circuit itself was extremely noisy and perhaps microphonic Wiring were leaking through into your bypass signal. None of our circuits are designed that poorly and you would find that most modern circuit board designs from any company would not cause any issue.
You can leave it on or take it off and see if you hear a difference when in Bypass. I have never personally done it.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.