Tagged: Sonic tonic beginner help
June 7, 2020 at 12:19 am #13164
I just want to start off by saying thank you for your patience. I am brand new to DIY pedals, I am a novice when it comes to small electronics, but my background is in gas measurement so I do have an understanding of electrical theory. I recently purchased the sonic tonic pedal. I put it all together and plugged in a 9v battery. I got no signal and the LED did not light up so obviously I’ve done something wrong. I think it’s prudent to also mention that I had some components left over so that could be it (the transistor, 2 resistors, a socket, and a 2.2 capacitor).If your first inclination is to tell me I got in over my head, I would agree with you however, you gotta start somewhere! Any help PLEASE!!!!!June 7, 2020 at 10:21 am #13167
You’ve got IC2 in the wrong way round Bryan
Some ICs have either a notch or a dot indicating pin 1 and some have both when they have both the notch is pin 1
Your IC1 TL072 is correct
Hopefully IC2 TL074 has not been damaged
R1 1K resistor and D1 1N4001 diode need to be installed alsoJune 7, 2020 at 10:53 am #13168
thank you so much brother I’ll give that a try now and repost. If I did damage I’ll purchase a new one.June 7, 2020 at 11:41 am #13170
All your resistor values look correct can’t fully see R18,19,20 and 21 but from what I can see they look correct and orientation aside from IC2 obviously, looks correct.
It’s difficult to trace your wires in some places because you’re using the same colours a lot as far as I can make out you’ve got the 3PDT grounded and powered those 2 red wires bottom left so your LED should light up
Anyway hopefully it’ll fire right up once you turn the IC around
Meant to say you’d posted it in the wrong forum so I moved it over you’d put it in the ‘how to use the forum’ part, that’s perhaps why it took so long to get people lookingJune 7, 2020 at 5:02 pm #13172
is there a spot for the transistor! If so where would that be. And check this out, I put the 1k resistor back in R1 and I flipped the the IC around. As per that, is it the top part of the IC that needed to be flipped? Or the entire thing?(bottom portion too meaning did I need to resolder?). I’m sorry about the same wire color. I used what they included in the kit which was just black and red. I followed the diagram on the build site with that so that should be correct anyway. I’m going to send a couple more pictures let me know what you think. I REALLY appreciate your help.June 7, 2020 at 5:26 pm #13174
Yes just carefully remove it from the socket and turn it around Bryan so the notch is at the other end as per the silkscreen below
There is no transistor in the circuit where did you get the kit
I notice you’ve changed your CLR (current limiting resistor) on the 3PDT pcb it looks like a 10M ohm your LED will definitely not light with that you want between 2K to 10K depending on how bright you like itJune 7, 2020 at 5:37 pm #13175
Yea billy that’s what I thought. That actually makes me nervous because it also seems as though there is a left over capacitor. Also on the 3PDT, I’m front of the switch there is a spot for a current limiting resistor and I’m afraid they sent me the wrong value. I got it from pedalpartsandkits.com. Other than that I’ll try this now and hopefully got it. Can’t thank you enough regardless!June 7, 2020 at 5:43 pm #13176
Bruce is very good with his kits he’s actually a moderator on here
Yes I edited my previous message you’ve got a 10M ohm in there now it won’t light with that it looks like you had a 1K in your previous photo that would light but pretty bright, I can see you’ve now put the 1K in R1 which is correct, a normal value for a clr is around 4K7 I like them dull and use a 10K with mine I’d just leave it for now till we hopefully get the circuit working, it won’t affect the circuit the LED just won’t light so not important at the moment
I’ve checked over your build all the values looked correct can’t actually see the value on C5 which should be 47nf so don’t be nervous they’re all correct and as I say Bruce has great customer service, he actually designed a number of these circuits including this one I think
I’d advise reflowing the solder joints on your jacks the ground on the out jack looks ball like and could be dry inside also doesn’t look well connected to the jack so stick your iron back on it till you get a nice solder flow around 4 seconds should do itJune 7, 2020 at 7:31 pm #13179
I didn’t wanna leave you hanging so still no dice. I’m getting some crackling but still no signal at all. I’m going to back off the wiring and re check that portion. I think it might be in the wiring. I also ordered some wire from amazon just to get some different colors in there. Once I get it re wired if you don’t mind taking one more look at it for me I’ll send some more detailed picsJune 7, 2020 at 7:41 pm #13180
Billy I had one more question. When installing the switch. Does it matter which way it goes in?June 7, 2020 at 11:04 pm #13193
It does but you’ve got it the correct way lugs horizontal and I think with Barrys 3PDT boards it’ll only fit in the right way
Normally you’d solder the switch to the underside but it doesn’t matter it may just be more difficult for you to fit it in your enclosure
The crackling may be the TL074 it could be fried with it being in the wrong way and power applied if you have a multimeter take the voltages on the pins and report back
To take voltages just in case you don’t know, set your meter to 20 VDC put the black probe in the COM socket and the red in V for voltage socket then place your ground probe on the main pcb ground pad and touch each IC pin with your red probe
Pin numbering goes top left of the notch pin 1 then down and round in a U shape like this it’s the same for any number of pins in your case down 1 to 7 then up 8 to 14 you should get 0 volts ground on pin 11 and power to pin 4 all other pins should be around 4.5v or half the power supply
Hopefully it’ll just be a fried TL074 and no other errors but no matter I’m sure we’ll get it going
Whilst yer waiting for parts have a read of the beginners guide to components which will give you a better understanding
Just for reference this is how most folks have their 3PDT boards, they’re great for neater wiring the newer ones even having a trimmer onboard giving you the ability to adjust your LED brightness and if you ever build a combo pedal they’re a must for easy wiringJune 8, 2020 at 8:42 pm #13198
That is great Billy thanks man! I re wired it with some new colors I got today. Unfortunately still no signal BUT I did get a buzz consistently when I engaged the switch. I ordered a whole bunch of components just in case something else was fried in the process but hopefully it’s just like you said that one part. I will keep you updated as the parts roll in and again man MANY thanksJune 8, 2020 at 9:27 pm #13204
Remember to turn that TL074 around I notice it’s still the wrong way round in your photo
While you’re waiting for it to arrive post some pics of the solder side of the pcbJune 8, 2020 at 11:56 pm #13207
Bryan, this is Bruce from Pedal Parts and Kits.
The wiring is wrong on the Out Jack. The yellow and black wires need to be switched. The yellow is connected to the sleeve, and the ground to the tip. Should be the other way around. The In Jack appears to be correctly wired.
In the kit, the Getting Started says to omit the CLR resistor (R23) from the main pcb, and put the 1k8 resistor in the CLR location on the 3PDT PCB. The bi-color LED’s included in the kits are not particularly bright, so 1k8 works well. The 2k7 you have in there now will work, but you may find it dimmer than you like in a lit room, but good for a dark room.
Billy is correct, the circuit also won’t work with the TL074 in backwards.
I have to say, looking at your build, the soldering unfortunately looks pretty bad from what I can tell. When I look at your components on the component side, I should see solder around the thru-hole plating on each hole, not a gap between the leads of the component and the hole. Please see a blown-up section of your board.The solder joints should be shiny, not dull. I’m looking at your pots with big globs of dull solder and lots of exposed wire. I am wondering what kind of iron and solder you are using. I think you should post a picture of the reverse side of the PCB so we can have a better look.
I zoomed in on another PCB on this support forum, for comparison:
When you heat the leads and pad on the other side, the heat travels down the lead and down the through-hole plating, and the solder is drawn down into the hole. It actually gets sucked into the hole, and forms a small hill on the component side of the board. While it’s not critical that both sides look like a “Hershey Kiss” it is kind of important that the hole be filled with solder to get a good joint.
I would say that 95+% of my customers who have great soldering skills have a working circuit without re-work or troubleshooting. It’s that important. Of course, wiring the jacks and inserting the IC’s into the sockets with the correct orientation is critical as well.
Sorry, not trying to make you feel bad about this, but I think you may be using insufficient heat to draw the solder into the joint on each pad, or maybe you have the wrong temperature, wrong solder, etc. Please post back with what you’re using and please post a picture of the reverse side of the PCB. Please correct the out Jack and the IC orientation, and connect the the wire to pad 3 of the “High” jack as well. We’ll get your build working. As Billy said, just carefully remove the TL074 from the socket, and change the orientation when you put it back in. No soldering needed for this task.
I am not sure why you ended up with extra parts. It looks like you clipped your LED leads really short. I think you missed the Getting Started section that was included on the Packing Slip/Bill of Materials included with your kit. We can ship you a new LED, but for now, we should see what else might be needed.June 8, 2020 at 11:59 pm #13208
Billy, FYI, our kits do include 3 wire colors, White, Red and Black. So each lug of a pot can be a different color, red for power, black for ground, white for audio signal to jacks, stuff like that. We get the good pre-bonded wire like Barry sells, which is kind of pricey, so we only stock the 3 colors for inclusion in kits.June 9, 2020 at 9:50 am #13212
Yeah I can see it’s top quality wire Bruce just found it hard to trace with red being used for both power and ground etc
I knew as soon as Bryan said he’d got it from yourself it’d all be quality gear I’d asked coz there’d been a few mishaps from another vendor recently on here and other forums with their kits
Bryan you’re probably best not to alter or rewire anything, I know you’ll be keen to get it fired up as we all were with our 1st creation but I’d wait till you get all the partsJune 9, 2020 at 11:31 am #13213
I found this image on the internet today. Credit to Gas station without pumps, a WordPress site.
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