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#3855
Barry
Keymaster

That is a lot of questions and I am happy to help.

My 1st best advice for you would be to spend some time reviewing our GUIDES PAGE as all this info and so much more is covered there in “laymans terms” with illustrated guides, photos and more. I would say there are a several days of material to study and learn from and is a great resource to refer back to.

Quickly:

Sockets are for socketing transistors. This way you do not overheat them and can easily exchange.

Polarity is marked on the schematic and is only an issue when using electrolytic caps. Those are also marked with polarity on the board silkscreen. Film Caps, MLCC and others are non-polar.

The LED is a ON/OFF status LED. It can be wired from the Main Board or a 3PDT wiring Board. Different strokes for different folks there.

The Bezel is what holds the LED in the enclosure hole.

Potentiometers: If they fit mount them without wires. That said your enclosure need to be precisely drilled and always mount potentiometers in the enclosure before soldering to the board (much easier) and no stress on solder joints doing it backwards and trying to make the potentiometers fit in the enclosure holes after they are soldered to the board.

I hope that helps and again please visit the GUIDES PAGE because this is all laid out beautifully and will likely even answer questions you did not even know you had yet. It starts with many PDF downloadable guides and continues with more photos and diagrams.

That said here is just one Photo (of many) from the GUIDES PAGE:

 

Easy Access to the GUIDES PAGE

Finally you can also learn something by looking at others completed builds in the Show off your build section of the Forum and also checkout the SLIDESHOW in the Main Menu Bar at the top of every page. The GUIDES PAGE is of top importance however.

Once you have taken the time to study the GUIDES and become familiar with the process then all other builds follow similar guidelines so it is very important to read all the materials we make available for a successful build.

 

  • Turn the heat down to avoid burning pads, parts and transistors.
  • Use a fine conical tip per my solder tutorial.
  • All Potentiometers are on the wrong side of the board (it will still work)
  • The extra LED is there as a bonus if you do not want to use a Bicolor.
  • The 1N4001 Diode is in backwards. The project will not work if backwards. To avoid burning pads you can tack solder a small jumper connecting both sides of the diode to see if the project works.

If after tack soldering a jumper to the 1N40001 Diode it still doesn’t work we will need voltage readings. The stripe on the diode must match the silkscreen stripe in the board. Please be careful with the Heat of your iron. Some areas look burnt and I see cold solder joints. (dull grey)

The potentiometers are supposed to be on the reverse side of the board so that they can be tightly grouped and will fit inside a small pedal enclosure and line up with the drill pattern as seen in the build document. For now I would leave them alone since they should still work if the Pads are still good.

Here is a solder video tutorial also from the guides page.

 

I hope that greatly helps,

Barry