Yes we need voltages if you cannot troubleshoot yourself.
As for the pictures I can see the two arrows need reviewing. I will have to be critical on a few items so please understand it is just an effort to help.
- The LED arrow despite looking potentially correct in one photo does not look right in this photo.
I zoomed in and cropped but it is still to hard to make out but the “Status On” Cathode Lead is supposed to be connected to the “Non-White Pad” the White pad is only used for the Status “OFF” color when using a Bi-Color Common Anode LED. The LED must be common anode and not common cathode as well or it will not work. So you will have to determine those two things I cannot see from the photo.
2. The potentiometer wiring is a heavier gauge than we typically use (24 gauge) however that should still fit considering a 1N4001 Diode will also fit through the pad. That said I am not sure the potentiometers are secured will with the pads. I would sure up any questionable connections and re-flow the entire board as well as any questionable off-board wiring. Be careful not to damage the pads with excessive heat or movement while adjusting and re-flowing.
One final note is that we pre-bend the resistor leads before inserting so they fit flat against the board and then solder. I see some of yours are angled which can cause enough stress when soldering to end up with a cold solder joint. I see several suspect joints (NOTE: R3 above the 9v connection for one example) that do not have a shiny Hershey kiss type joint on them which can be a cold solder joint. So again the fix here would be to re-flow and adjust while re-flowing being careful not to damage the pads.