Viewing 16 posts - 1 through 16 (of 16 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #30201
    BLively
    Participant

    I’m attempting to use the Roto-Tone Deluxe as an onboard, in control cavity rotary/varitone switch.  I’ve followed the diagram and used a Cody switch so that I can get 8 cap values out of the board.  However, not sure how to properly ground and/or wire it into the guitar as I would with a normal rotary switch since it’s connected into a pcb.   Any help or diagram would be tremendous!

    #30202
    Cybercow
    Moderator

    No idea what a “Cody switch” is. Can you please clarify?

    And the Roto-Tone Deluxe does not support 8 device options – only 4.

    We need more information on what you’re chasing.

    #30209
    BLively
    Participant

    <p style=”padding-left: 40px;”>Sorry – typo – I meant using a dpdt switch.  Per the instructions with the Roto-tone deluxe, you can get up to 8 values using the dpdt switch.  One for each leg of the rotary switch / one for each quadrant of the Roto-tone deluxe.   My attempt in this is to use this pcb with the included mini 1-pole 8-position rotary, combined with the dpdt switch, using 8 separate capacitor values and create a pcb version of the varitone switch.   Hope this helps.  What I’m confused on is where the ground would come from off the board as well as where the ‘hot’ wire would come from to connect to the volume pot.</p>

    #30210
    BLively
    Participant

    I have it put together (took this pic before adding in the dpdt switch) and wiring it exactly as the diagram (previous post) shows.  Just do not know where to wire the ground or hot in this instance.

     

    #30219
    wilkie1
    Moderator

    Since I wrote the article for the RotoTone Deluxe, I can add this information:

    First, the rotary switch only has 4 (four) positions.  The addition of a DPDT switch as shown will permit the selection of 4 (four) more capacitors that are placed in the B to D positions.  If you were to use four small value capacitors in the A to C positions and then four larger value capacitors in the B to D, the DPDT switch would then be selecting a high and low range of values.

    I did a similar project to select four values for the WAH pedal.  I found 4 different values provided quite a large variance of tones.

    As the board and switch are only replacing a single capacitor position on the original circuit, there is no need for a separate ground or power connection.

    I hope this helps.

    #30227
    BLively
    Participant

    Wilkie1:   So, I’m attempting to use this same setup you mention and that I’ve taken a picture of (minus the dpdt switch that was attached after pic was taken, that has a total of 8 (placed as you and the diagram explains) 50v small polypropylene capacitors that provide a total of eight tones ones the rotary is engage in each of the 4 positions and then after the dpdt switch is engaged, the other 4.  My question and where I’m stuck, is how to I incorporate this into my guitar control cavity and connect to a hot and ground source, as I would with a varitone switch without a pcb board/ dpdt switch?   That’s how I’d like to use the Roto-tone deluxe pcb with accompanying dpdt switch; this, replacing a tone pot on the guitar.   Can this be done and if so, what is the missing step to connect it?

    #30230
    BLively
    Participant

    to reiterate, this is to be used as a standalone pcb connected to a guitar, so ground and hot are vital to its operation, to become exactly as a varitone switch, but pcb-based.   Can anyone help me?

    #30231
    BLively
    Participant

    I’m basically trying to duplicate one that Epiphone has already done, but not at the Amazon price of $50 per, with all the added junk attached.

    #30237
    wilkie1
    Moderator

    Try connecting the IN wire in the Roto-tone/DPDT diagram above to the lug 3 of the VOL pot.  Connect the OUT wire to GROUND.

    #30244
    BLively
    Participant

    Thank you my friend!   Thank you x 1,000,000,000!!!!!!

    #30687
    BLively
    Participant

    Sorry guys, I’m the original poster an fam still having difficulties upstanding how to make this work.   I have ZERO issues taking a 1p12t rotary switch, a 2p6t rotary switch, etc and turning it into a varitone switch for all my guitars, connecting it to either the volume pot, or directly to the jack.  I even use the audio xicon audio transformers to boost the passive power.  But for some reason, even as easy as the layout is with this RotoTone delixe, I can’t get my head wrapped around the placement of my capacitors.  I like to include resistors I parallel for each cap to prevent the pop, but am even willing to forgo that just to make this work, using in combination the recommended DPDT switch to give 8 values using the mini rotary.  I’ve purchased around 50 of these, thinking no problems and would make tons of these for guitarists like myself, tired of big, bulky Alpha varitone switches that consume a large portion of the guitar control cavity.  I just cannot, for the life of me, make it work.  I’m wondering and hoping that someone smarter than me (that makes pretty much all of you) can just tell me exactly where, using the following photo direct from the rototone deluxe manual, exactly which areas I would place 8, small (50v) poly caps of varying values, I combination with a SPDT switch, so I would end up with a working 8-tone rotary switch for a guitar.  I could then figure out the introduction of the audio transformer and hookup connection part of things.   Can someone please show me?

    #30704
    wilkie1
    Moderator

    You cannot add resistors in parallel with each capacitor.  That would change the filter values beyond the frequency ranges desired.

    The ROTO TONE DELUXE document does not show parallel resistors.

    Simply connect the IN and OUT wires of the DPDT switch to Lug 3 of the VOL pot and GROUND as stated above.  Four caps are connected to pads A to C and four caps are connected to pads B and D. I hope this helps.

    #30707
    Rob S
    Participant

    Pardon but It looks like the caps in the original photo are not mounted properly.  They should each have only one leg per section in a given “quadrant” (for four caps), or one leg in a section and one leg in a “lettered row”.  In the photo it looks like you’ve mounted both legs in a single quadrant section, shorting them out.

     

    Sorry if this has been addressed!

    Edits in italics

    #30715
    BLively
    Participant

    thank you both so much!!! mark, I do apologize, I meant in series.  However, I completely get it.   and thank you, Rob – THAT is the missing link…THE issue that is causing the problems.    I cannot believe I missed that!!!

    #30724
    wilkie1
    Moderator

    Happy to hear you understand the proper placement of capacitor legs between pads A and  C and C and D of each segment.  Don’t forget to remove the resistors!

    Please forward a success story and final photo to help other forum members that are doing this procedure or are considering doing it.

    #30750
    Rob S
    Participant

    Happy to help!

Viewing 16 posts - 1 through 16 (of 16 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.